The Cape Cod Rover

The Keltic Kitchen...A Touch of Ireland Tom, the Cape Rover
by Tom O'Connell, The Cape Cod Rover

Having been raised by Irish women, to me there is something special about the way the Irish speak and the way they display hospitality. I find that at The Keltic Kitchen in West Yarmouth across the street from the Visitors' Center on Route 28. It has the cozy atmosphere of an Irish pub, without the alcohol. USA Today featured The Keltic Kitchen as one of “10 Great Places to Start Your Day Sunny Side Up.”

During your visit, you'll see a lot of the color green, which was a favorite with the Irish long before the environmentalists and some politicians latched onto it as if they had invented it. If you have flown to Ireland you've seen the many shades of green in the fields down below as you near Shannon Airport. And you'll see it as you approach The Keltic Kitchen. Inside the green on the walls and on the tablecloths contrasts in an appealing way with the dark wood furnishings.

The Celtic Kitchen

I always get a warm feeling when I step into The Keltic Kitchen, a family operation if there ever was one. David Dempsey, originally from Dublin, is the owner and chef extraordinaire. Before buying his own place in 1994, David honed his restaurant hospitality skills at the Irish Village nearby. He spends most of his time at the grill in the open kitchen where everyone is part of the action. You may see wife Margaret too, near the hearth, greeting you at the entrance. She's from Cork. And one or more of the Dempsey children are apt to be there.

You never know who you may meet at The Keltic Kitchen. Margo, one of Ireland's leading Irish singers, may be there. Or figure skating champion Nancy Kerrigan. Or old friends you hadn't expected to see.
“No Irish Need Apply”With traditional Irish music in the background, you'll hear Irish accents and “the lilt of Irish laughter” from waitresses Evie who was raised in Cavan and Aisling from Killarney. However, you'll hear other interesting accents if you are attended to by Fernando from Brazil or Nico from Romania. There's an international flavor at The Keltic Kitchen.

On the dining room walls there are so many interesting old photos that the place might be called The Keltic Museum. Take the time to examine them. You'll be reminded of the imprisoned “Liberator” Daniel O'Connell and the martyred revolutionary hero General Michael Collins. You'll also see authentic photos of Irish family life many decades ago, fascinating pictures of kids, and a “Help Wanted: No Irish Need Apply” sign from the good old days in cities such as Boston when my grandmother Johanna arrived here from Ireland in the 1890s and went looking for work on Beacon Hill. There's a humorous sign too: “Unattended children will be sold as slaves.”

If you order an omelet at the Keltic Kitchen you had better be prepared to take a large part of it home with you. The helpings of dishes served here are not stingy. You will come away satisfied, whether you are eating breakfast dishes such as the Keltic Benny, the Keltic Scramble, or Eggs Florentine. The same holds true for the stack of Buttermilk Pancakes and the Thick Cut French Toast piled high with blueberries, strawberries, and cranberries. Or if you are in a high protein mood you may go for Steak & Eggs with a juicy 10 oz. NY sirloin, two eggs, toast and home fries.

Evie from Cavan serving happy diners

At lunch, you will have a variety of sandwiches to select from. One of my favorites is the BLT which you may order “with rashers” along with the fries. A rasher is a hefty slice of cooked bacon. Other standard items are Hamburgers which I think of as “huge,” Smoked Turkey Breast, The Mushroom Cheeseburger, the Keltic Burger, and the Breaded Chicken Cutlet. Also, some of the specials may surprise you with their international names.

David notes that special ingredients include imported Irish meats, black & white pudding, and one of Ireland's favorite teas. Homemade Irish Brown Bread is baked on the premises, along with Scones. Beverages include fresh ground coffee with a free refill, Barry's Irish Tea, Hot Chocolate with whipped cream, sodas and juices.

Prices fall in a range from about 3.50 for an egg and toast to 10.50 for Steak & Eggs, with most selections around six to eight dollars.

Owner David Dempsey at the grill in the open kitchen

Check out the menu online at www.thekeltickitchen.com/menu.htm

Located in the mid-Cape at 415 Route 28, you will be near Seagull Beach on Nantucket Sound, Bass River, a short ride to beaches on Cape Cod Bay, the Playhouse, and a five-minute drive to Hyannis. There's plenty to do in the area.

The Keltic Kitchen is open year-round from 7:00 a.m. to 2 p.m. every day except Christmas. All menu selections are available throughout the day till closing. All major credit cards are accepted. There's seating for 50 at cozy tables and along the granite bar where you can watch the cooking and chat with David. A large porch was added four years ago. The phone is 508-771-4835. Reservations are not necessary.

By summer the new Keltic Kottage gift shop will be open at the same location with Irish foods, cosmetics, Celtic jewelry, Gifts…and much more.

I'll close with an Irish blessing: “May your blessings outnumber the Shamrocks that grow, and may trouble avoid you wherever you go.”

That’s it for now from The Cape Cod Rover.

Till next time, Tom

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Note: Tom O'Connell is a Cape Cod Writer and Lecturer.Take a look at his www.sanctuary777.com website where you will find many essays as well as excerpts from his books. His new memoir is Bugging Out: An Army Memoir (1954). He is also the author of The O'Connell Boy:Educating The Wolf Child~An Irish-American Memoir (1932-1950).See chapters www.sanctuary777.com